Martin Margiela
Founder of Maison Martin Margiela; artist since leaving fashion in 2009
Martin Margiela is a Belgian designer who founded Maison Martin Margiela in Paris in 1988 and became one of the most influential conceptual designers of the late 20th century. He also led women's ready to wear at Hermès from 1997 to 2003, left fashion in 2009 and now works as a visual artist.
| Role | Founder; now visual artist |
|---|---|
| Organisation | Maison Margiela (OTB since 2002) |
| Born | 1957, Genk |
| Founded | 1988, Paris |
| Left fashion | 2009 |
| Known for | Deconstruction, Tabi boot, anonymity |
Who is Martin Margiela?
Martin Margiela, born in Genk, Belgium in 1957, is a fashion designer and artist. He founded Maison Martin Margiela in 1988 with business partner Jenny Meirens and became known for deconstruction, upcycling, oversized proportions and an unusual policy of anonymity: he avoided public appearances, and the house communicated with the press collectively as "we".
Career
Margiela graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1979 and worked as a design assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier from 1984 to 1987. His debut show for his own house in 1989 presented exposed seams, frayed hems and reworked garments that challenged the polished aesthetic of the time. The house's blank white label held by four white stitches, its numbered line system and the split toe Tabi boot, first shown in 1989, became lasting signatures.
From 1997 to 2003 he was also creative director of women's ready to wear at Hermès, where he worked on a more understated, wearable luxury. In 2002 the OTB group led by Renzo Rosso acquired his house, and Margiela left fashion in 2009. The house, now Maison Margiela, was later led by John Galliano from 2014 to 2024 and by Glenn Martens since January 2025.
- 1979: graduates from the Antwerp academy
- 1984 to 1987: assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier
- 1988: founds Maison Martin Margiela
- 1997 to 2003: Hermès women's ready to wear
- 2002: OTB acquires the house
- 2009: leaves fashion
Influence on the fashion business
Margiela's ideas on reuse, deconstruction and anonymity have influenced generations of designers and anticipated current debates about upcycling and circular design. The artisanal line, which reworked existing garments and objects, is now often cited as an early example of upcycling at luxury level. His approach also showed that a strong conceptual identity can outlive its founder: the house remains one of the most recognisable brands in the OTB portfolio and has held the haute couture appellation since 2012.
Since leaving fashion he has worked as an artist. His first solo exhibition opened at Lafayette Anticipations in Paris in October 2021, and the 2019 documentary Martin Margiela: In His Own Words by Reiner Holzemer presented his career in his own voice, without showing his face.
Why it matters
For fashion businesses, Margiela demonstrates the commercial power of a coherent concept: codes he created more than thirty years ago still drive product and brand recognition. His work remains a reference point for discussions of sustainability through reuse and for the value of a house identity that is larger than any single designer.
Frequently asked questions
Who is Martin Margiela?
Martin Margiela is a Belgian designer born in 1957 who founded Maison Martin Margiela in 1988. He left fashion in 2009 and has since worked as an artist.
Who designs Maison Margiela now?
Glenn Martens has been creative director of Maison Margiela since January 2025. He followed John Galliano, who led the house from 2014 to 2024.