Bernhard Willhelm
Founder of the Bernhard Willhelm label
Bernhard Willhelm is a German designer and graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp who founded his label with Jutta Kraus in 1998. Known for craftsmanship, eclecticism and irony, he has presented collections as installations and performances, and has been based in Los Angeles since 2013.
| Role | Founder and designer, Bernhard Willhelm |
|---|---|
| Founded | 1998, with Jutta Kraus |
| Based in | Los Angeles (since 2013) |
| Education | Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp |
| Born | 3 November 1972, Ulm |
Who is Bernhard Willhelm?
Bernhard Willhelm was born in Ulm, Germany, on 3 November 1972. He is one of the most distinctive voices in independent fashion, known for eccentric silhouettes, bold prints and a sense of humour that sets his work apart from conventional luxury. His approach is often summarised as a combination of craftsmanship, eclecticism and irony. His studio has been based in Los Angeles since 2013.
Career
Willhelm studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, and during his studies assisted designers including Walter Van Beirendonck, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Dirk Bikkembergs. Key moments in his career include:
- 1998: founding of his label with Jutta Kraus, followed by a first womenswear collection in 1999 and menswear in 2000
- 2002: move of the studio from Antwerp to Paris and creative direction of Capucci until 2004
- 2008 to 2015: footwear collections with Camper
- 2009 to 2014: head of the fashion department at the University of Applied Arts Vienna
- 2013: relocation of his operation to Los Angeles
His work has been exhibited at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles in 2015, the Groninger Museum in 2009 and MoMu in Antwerp in 2007.
Influence on the fashion business
Willhelm has consistently challenged the standard fashion calendar by presenting collections through installations and performances rather than traditional runway shows. He has worked with artists across disciplines, including costumes for Björk's Volta, projects with photographer Nick Knight and work with choreographer William Forsythe.
His partnership with Camper is a notable example of a long term designer collaboration. Linda Loppa, then head of the Antwerp academy, introduced him to the brand, and by 2010 the two had produced four series together. Willhelm stressed durability in footwear, telling Dazed: "You can use good lasts for a lifetime."
Why it matters
Willhelm belongs to the generation of Antwerp trained designers who showed that independent, conceptual fashion can build an international following. His career as a designer, educator and collaborator illustrates alternative routes through the industry outside the large luxury groups. His decade of work with Camper and his years leading the fashion department in Vienna also show how independent designers can extend their influence through partnerships and teaching, not only through their own collections.
Frequently asked questions
Who is Bernhard Willhelm?
Bernhard Willhelm is a German fashion designer who founded his label with Jutta Kraus in 1998. He trained in Antwerp and is known for eccentric, humorous collections presented as installations and performances.
What did Bernhard Willhelm design for Camper?
He created footwear collections with Camper between 2008 and 2015, including trainers with a specially developed wave sole inspired by surfboards.