In-season buying rises as wholesale lead times fall to 102 days

How much have wholesale lead times shortened?

The average time from a wholesale order being placed to the product shipping has fallen from 263 days in 2019 to 102 days in 2024, according to transaction data from Joor, a New York wholesale platform connecting premium brands and retailers. This shift towards shorter lead times is expected to continue as buyers increase in-season purchases, a development that demands brands hold more stock to fulfil closer-to-season orders.

The compression represents a structural change in wholesale buying patterns. Buyers are increasingly demanding shorter lead times, driven by the need to reduce inventory risk and respond more nimbly to consumer trends. Amanda McCormick Bacal, senior vice-president of marketing at Joor, noted that the overarching theme for brands and retailers is to focus on agility and informed decision-making.

Are buyers placing orders closer to the season?

53 per cent of buyers anticipate extending buying windows deeper into the season, allowing them to chase sell-through, gauge trends and monitor changes in consumer spending, according to a survey from Joor. The trend is most pronounced in North America, though it is also growing across Europe, the Middle East, Africa and Asia.

As a result, 31 per cent of brands said they plan to lengthen their selling windows and accept orders closer to delivery. This represents a shift from traditional pre-order models, in which retailers would commit months in advance and share production risk with brands. The closer-to-season model transfers inventory risk back onto brands, which must now produce or stock merchandise before confirming retail demand.

What role do evergreen and bestseller styles play?

Evergreen and bestselling styles grew from 37 per cent of gross merchandise value on Joor in 2019 to 49 per cent in 2024. This shift reflects both buyer caution and the operational requirements of in-season ordering: brands need stock on hand to ship quickly, and never-out-of-stock styles provide a lower-risk foundation for that inventory.

The share of brands producing full new collections has declined, while those focusing on smaller capsule collections of new styles has risen from 19 per cent to 37 per cent over the past two years, according to Joor market survey data. Tighter assortments and a higher proportion of proven styles help brands manage the financial burden of holding stock for shorter-lead-time orders.

How does this compare with traditional pre-order models?

Historically, apparel brands would be responsible for fronting the capital required to design and market a collection, while retailers would take on financial ownership through production, purchasing styles by pre-order months before they would be available to resell in-store. This method provided apparel brands the opportunity to aggregate demand prior to manufacturing, minimising the creation of unsold inventory, while retailers could secure exclusive new styles to attract consumers.

That balance has shifted. Some retailers amended their terms, shifting ownership back onto brands, requiring them to commit to buy back unsold inventory or help fund markdowns. Meanwhile, the rise of in-season buying further concentrates inventory risk with brands, which must now forecast, produce and warehouse goods without confirmed orders.

What supply chain changes enable faster delivery?

Brands are pursuing nearshoring to improve speed, cost and agility. By locating production closer to consumer markets, they can reduce lead times and shipping and importing costs while responding more swiftly to trends and decreasing inventory. Shein has developed an industry-leading technology backbone to sync its systems with a sizable supplier base, reducing lead time from concept to customer to just 15 to 21 days, compared with approximately four to six weeks for the top fast-fashion players, according to industry experts cited by McKinsey.

The State of Fashion 2025 report underscores accelerating trade reconfiguration, with nearshoring and friend-shoring gaining momentum as companies seek resilience and shorter lead times amid logistics and tariff uncertainty. Inventory excellence and margin protection move to the top of the agenda, with brands reducing overstock, tightening buy decisions and deploying data and AI across planning, pricing and returns.

What are the operational implications for brands?

Shorter lead times and in-season buying require brands to rethink capital allocation and inventory strategy. Brands must hold more finished goods or work with suppliers that can turn orders quickly. The trends identified demand that brands and retailers have a strategy built on real-time insights, according to Joor.

The shift also influences collection architecture. Brands are investing more heavily in core programmes and proven styles that can be held as stock, while limiting the breadth of seasonal newness. For buyers, the advantages are clear: lower commitment risk, more flexibility to react to sell-through and the ability to test trends before committing to depth. For brands, the model demands stronger cash positions, better demand forecasting and closer integration between merchandising, production and distribution.

• Brands need higher working capital to finance and warehouse inventory without confirmed orders
• Successful in-season models rely on accurate demand signals and real-time sales data
• Nearshoring and regional production hubs are becoming competitive necessities
• Technology platforms enable brands to manage rolling order windows and dynamic assortments

Researched and drafted with AI support, reviewed and released by the editorial team.

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