Lemaire
Independent, with a minority stake held by Fast Retailing (Uniqlo) since 2018 · France
Lemaire is a Paris fashion label launched in 2014 by Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran, known for understated, elegant clothing. Fast Retailing, the parent of Uniqlo, acquired a minority stake in 2018 without making it a subsidiary. It sells mostly through retail partners and a small network of own stores.
| Founded | 2014 |
|---|---|
| Founders | Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran |
| Owner | Independent; Fast Retailing holds a minority stake (2018) |
| Headquarters | Paris, France |
| Segment | Luxury and designer houses |
| Website | lemaire.fr |
What is Lemaire?
Lemaire is a Paris-based fashion label designed by Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran. Business of Fashion describes its style as elegant modernism, with most prices under $1,000. Womenswear made up about 75% of the business in 2018, with menswear about 25%.
History
According to FashionUnited, Lemaire started in 2014 when Christophe Lemaire left his post at Hermès to launch the label with Sarah-Linh Tran. Before that, Lemaire had served as artistic director of womenswear at Hermès from 2010 to 2014. In July 2018, Fast Retailing, the owner of Uniqlo, Theory and Helmut Lang, acquired a minority stake. The terms were not disclosed, and Fast Retailing said it had no plan to make Lemaire a subsidiary.
Separately, Christophe Lemaire has worked for Fast Retailing as head of Uniqlo's Paris R&D Center and designer of the Uniqlo U line, launched in 2016.
Products and positioning
Lemaire sells ready-to-wear for women and men, with bags and accessories. The label positions itself as a quiet alternative to logo-led luxury and sits in the premium to lower luxury price band. Business of Fashion reported sales of about $12 million in 2017, roughly double those of two years earlier, a figure that predates the Fast Retailing investment and should not be read as current.
Business model and distribution
Wholesale is central to the model. Business of Fashion reported more than 200 retail partners worldwide, with regional sales split across Europe (34%), Japan (18%), the rest of Asia (27%) and North America (18%) in 2017. The official website currently lists 19 points of sale, including own stores in Paris and counters at department stores such as Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marché and Printemps Haussmann, plus locations in Tokyo, Osaka, Beijing, Shanghai, London, Milan and Seoul.
Why it matters
Lemaire is a case study in how an independent designer label can grow with a strategic minority partner while keeping creative control. The partnership with Fast Retailing combined a luxury-adjacent label with the world's largest casualwear group, an arrangement observers have watched as a model for design-led growth.
Frequently asked questions
Who owns Lemaire?
Lemaire was founded by Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran. Fast Retailing, the parent company of Uniqlo, acquired a minority stake in 2018 and said it had no plan to make the label a subsidiary.
Where is Lemaire from?
Lemaire is a Paris-based French label launched in 2014. Its stores include locations in Paris, Tokyo, Beijing, London and Milan.