29 October 2026International edition
Vol. I · No.
29 October 2026
AI IN FASHION
DAILY
The daily briefing on AI in the fashion business
Where fashion meets artificial intelligence.
Jewellery and watches

Masahiro Kikuno

Japan

Masahiro Kikuno is an independent Japanese watchmaker who creates one-off mechanical wristwatches by hand. Born in Hokkaido in 1983, he is best known for reinterpreting the traditional Japanese variable-hour timekeeping system in a wristwatch.

Facts
FounderMasahiro Kikuno
Born1983, Fukagawa, Hokkaido
TrainingHiko Mizuno Jewelry College, Tokyo
Signature modelWadokei (2011)
AffiliationAHCI full member since 2013
Websitemasahirokikuno.jp
Segment
Luxury
Categories
Watches
Sales channels
Own stores

What is Masahiro Kikuno?

Masahiro Kikuno is both a Japanese independent watchmaker and the name under which his watches are sold. Each piece is a unique commission built to a client's specification, and he makes almost every component himself, cutting cases from solid metal blocks and forming dials by hammering and hot-bonding metals.

History

Born in Fukagawa, Hokkaido, in 1983, Kikuno served in Japan's Self-Defense Forces before a superior sparked his interest in mechanical watches. He then studied on the watch course at Hiko Mizuno Jewelry College in Tokyo, graduating in 2008, and now teaches there. In 2011 he completed his Wadokei and became the youngest associate member of the AHCI, the Academy of Independent Creators in Horology, gaining full membership in 2013.

Products and positioning

  • Wadokei (2011): described as the first wristwatch with a variable-hour mechanism, inspired by Tanaka Hisashige's perpetual clock
  • Mokume (2014): a dial made with mokume-gane, the traditional Japanese metal-layering technique
  • Wadokei Kai (2015): adds crown operation to the variable-hour system
  • Complication (presented 2025): combines a minute repeater, tourbillon and chronograph in one movement

Output is extremely limited. He paused orders in 2018 to clear a backlog, and commissions are placed through his official website.

Why it matters

Kikuno is one of the best-known names among Japan's independent watchmakers, translating Japanese craft traditions such as variable-hour timekeeping and mokume-gane into contemporary haute horlogerie.

Frequently asked questions

Who is Masahiro Kikuno?

Masahiro Kikuno is a Japanese independent watchmaker born in Hokkaido in 1983. He builds one-off mechanical watches almost entirely by hand.

What is the Masahiro Kikuno Wadokei?

The Wadokei, completed in 2011, is a wristwatch that displays the traditional Japanese variable-hour system, in which the length of hours changes with daylight.

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