Design for recycling: a checklist for fashion product teams
A practical checklist covering fibre choice, trims, finishes, labels and data, based on published guidelines and EU ecodesign direction.
KEY TAKEAWAYS Summary by the editors
- More than 80% of a product's lifecycle environmental impact is set at the design stage, according to the European Commission's description of ecodesign.
- The Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Jeans Redesign guidelines, launched on 16 July 2019, require at least 98% cellulose fibre by weight and that metal rivets be designed out or minimised.
- The same guidelines require jeans to withstand at least 30 home laundries, which shows that durability is treated as part of circular design, not a separate concern.
- The EU's ecodesign framework allows rules to address substances that hinder recycling or reuse, and digital product passports can carry information on materials and recycling capabilities.
- Recyclability depends on collection and sorting infrastructure as well as design, so a checklist improves the odds but does not guarantee recycling.
What does design for recycling mean in fashion?
Design for recycling means making choices at the design stage that allow a garment to be sorted, disassembled where needed and processed into new material at the end of its life. The European Commission notes that over 80% of a product's lifecycle environmental impact is set during design, which is why this stage carries the most leverage. The checklist below is intended for product, design and technical teams.
Which published guidelines should the checklist draw on?
The most concrete public example for apparel is the Jeans Redesign, launched by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation on 16 July 2019. It sets requirements on durability, material health, recyclability and traceability. Jeans must withstand at least 30 home laundries while meeting each brand's minimum quality standards, and garments must carry clear care labels. Cellulose fibres must come from regenerative, organic or transitional farming, and jeans must be free of hazardous chemicals and conventional electroplating. Stone finishing, potassium permanganate and sandblasting are banned.
For recyclability, jeans must be at least 98% cellulose fibre by weight, metal rivets must be designed out or minimised, and any added materials must be easy to disassemble. The guidelines also require that evidence of compliance be easily available. These rules are specific to jeans, but the logic carries over to other garments.
What should the design for recycling checklist include?
| Area | Check | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Fibre | Is the garment mono-material or dominated by one fibre family? | Mixed fibres are harder to separate and process |
| Blends | Is every blend component justified by function? | Small shares of other fibres can hinder recycling |
| Trims | Can buttons, zips, rivets and labels be removed or avoided? | Hard parts complicate shredding and sorting |
| Thread and interlinings | Are they compatible with the main fibre? | Incompatible thread can contaminate recycled material |
| Finishes and prints | Are chemicals avoided where they hinder recycling or reuse? | Coatings and prints can limit processing options |
| Durability | Does the product meet a stated wash and wear standard? | Longer use reduces the need for recycling |
| Labelling | Are fibre content and care instructions clear and durable? | Sorters and recyclers need accurate composition data |
| Data | Is the bill of materials accurate and stored in a structured form? | Passports and claims depend on it |
How should product teams apply the checklist?
- Set a recyclability target at the brief stage, such as a mono-material core with limited trims.
- Review the bill of materials at each sample stage against the checklist, and record exceptions with reasons.
- Involve technical and sourcing teams early, because suppliers may not stock compatible trims or threads.
- Test durability against a defined standard before approving the style.
- Record composition, trims and finishes in structured product data, so that labels and later reporting come from one source.
- Review results each season and revise rules where recurring exceptions appear.
What are the common trade-offs?
- Performance versus recyclability: stretch, water resistance or fit may need blends or coatings that complicate recycling.
- Design appearance versus simplicity: embellishment and mixed trims add complexity at end of life.
- Cost: compatible trims or threads may cost more or require new suppliers.
- Durability versus fibre choice: a longer-lasting material may be harder to recycle, or the reverse.
- Infrastructure: a design that is recyclable in principle may lack a collection and sorting route in the target market.
These trade-offs should be recorded openly. A checklist is a decision aid, and exceptions are acceptable when the reason is documented.
Teams sometimes ask where to start when a range already exists. A sensible first step is to audit a sample of current styles against the checklist and record where they fall short. Typical findings include blends with small shares of a second fibre, hard trims with no functional need and finishes that were added for appearance only. This gives a baseline and shows which changes are quick, such as removing a decorative metal element, and which need supplier development, such as switching thread.
Supplier involvement is central. Many recyclability decisions are made in the supply chain, for example which thread a factory stocks or which trim vendor supplies a standard zip. Product teams can specify the compatible option, but they also need to confirm availability, minimum order quantities and cost. Early conversations avoid last-minute compromises that undo the design intent.
Finally, record the reasoning. When a style meets only part of the checklist, the decision and its rationale should be stored with the product record. This builds a shared history of what worked, supports later claims and reporting, and helps future teams avoid repeating the same debate. Over several seasons, the exceptions list shows where materials or supplier capabilities need to improve.
How do regulation and data fit in?
The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation has been in force since 18 July 2024. The Commission describes ecodesign rules that can address substances that hinder recycling or reuse, enhance lifetime, reusability and reparability, and increase recycled content. The digital product passport can hold information on technical performance, materials and their origins, repair activities, recycling capabilities and lifecycle environmental impacts. The regulation also introduces a ban on destroying unsold textiles and footwear. Textiles-specific rules are expected in 2027 according to one compliance update, with a transition of around 18 months after adoption, so product requirements are not yet final.
McKinsey's Fashion on Climate analysis notes that brands could improve their material mix mainly through more recycled fibre, and that consumer-side levers such as resale, repair and closed-loop recycling are also important. For design teams the practical step is to build accurate, structured product data now. Teams that already record composition, trims and finishes by style will find it easier to meet future passport requirements, whatever their final form.
Frequently asked questions
What is design for recycling?
It is the practice of making design decisions, such as fibre choice, trims and finishes, so that a product can be sorted and processed into new material at end of life. It works best alongside durability and reliable collection routes.
Why are metal rivets and trims a problem for recycling?
Hard parts complicate shredding and processing. The Jeans Redesign guidelines therefore require that metal rivets be designed out or minimised, and that added materials be easy to disassemble.
Are mono-material garments always recyclable?
No. Mono-material construction helps, but trims, finishes, thread and the availability of collection and recycling routes also matter. Recyclability claims should depend on a real route in the market.
Does EU regulation require design for recycling?
The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation allows rules on matters such as substances that hinder recycling and recycled content, but textile-specific requirements are still to be set. One compliance update expects a textiles act in 2027.
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